Wines don't get more opulent than these - bowls full of red and black fruit, well-integrated oak, and even a little licorice thrown in. This is your cue to go for cheeses that will hold their own and yet won't compete with the wine. What are those? Semi-hard cheeses. These are the go-to category of cheeses for wines like these because most semi-hard cheeses (think aged cheddars, mountain-style cheeses, in general, hearty cheeses) are balanced, not too salty, and full-flavored but not overpowering.

Look for aged cow's milk cheeses. Do not choose aged sheep's or goat's milk cheeses because their intense savory quality will strip away the fruit in the wine.

Here are some examples of cheeses that make particularly good companions for this style of wine. If you can't find these cheeses, try and find similar ones based on these descriptions.

Reserve Mahon - This aged cow's milk cheese from the Spanish island of Menorca is the only cheese made on the island, and it's a delicious one at that. For this wine, though, be sure to look for aged Mahon rather than the younger, creamier version, which will not work with this wine style. The aged version - preferably four to six months old - has everything - caramel notes, nuttiness, a salted butter-like flavor, a slight tang at the end, and a hint of salt. When paired with these wines, the cheese's savory, complex qualities interact perfectly with the oak and black fruit in the wine.

Dry Jack - This aged version of Monterey Jack is meaty and savory yet is somehow mild at the same time. These characteristics tease out the earthier features in the wine to create a combination that is almost steak-like in its heartiness. This is the go-to combination when you're in the mood for something substantial and very satisfying.

Cabot Clothbound - This Vermont-made cheese is possibly one of the best cheeses made anywhere in the world, and it's also unquestionably one of the best cheeses for red wine-pairing. It's nutty, creamy in the mouth even though it's a bit crumbly to cut; it's mellow instead of sharp like many cheddars are, and it has brown butter and toffee-like overtones. When matched with these wines, the combination is an explosion of fruit, salt, butter, and nuts. It all adds up to one big wow.

Complements
Toasted walnuts and speck (similar to prosciutto but very lightly smoked), and hearty Italian bread

Cheeseburger Plus
Combine equal parts ground beef and pork. Mix in a few tablespoons of purchased smoky barbecue sauce. Add a little salt and pepper, garlic powder, and dried thyme. Form into patties. Grill or barbecue the patties on one side. Meanwhile, cut a cheese such as Cabot Clothbound, Reserve Mahon, or an other semi-hard cheese into thin slices to fit the patties. Turn the patties and place the cheese on top. Cook until desired doneness. Place on hamburger bun or ciabatta rolls and serve. Pass any extra cheese and barbecue sauce on the side.

Laura Werlin is one of the foremost authorities on cheese in the United States. She is the award-winning author of five books on the subject, a sought-after speaker at food and wine events, a spokesperson for consumer and trade organizations, and a frequent television and radio guest.

Each of Laura's books has been honored with domestic and international awards including the James Beard award for her book The All American Cheese and Wine Book, She has just finished her latest book, Grilled Cheese, Please, which will be released in March 2011.

Werlin is known for her approachable yet authoritative teaching style and is frequently asked to speak at prestigious events, most notably the annualFood & Wine Magazine Classic at Aspen, the South Beach Food & Wine Festival, the Santa Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta, and the Artisan Cheese Festival in Sonoma County in California. She is also a regular instructor at the Cheese School of San Francisco.

Laura's website is laurawerlin.com